PART
THREE
Retrieved
from my Russia files- from Major Goran Larsson, SA THQ Stockholm, Sweden - not
read until today 30 March, 2015
I’ve
taken the liberty of making a few minor edits; spelling, translating the
ocassional Swedish word, and whenever Goran wrote Mrs. Ljungholm, Cathy, Cathie
or Captain Sven Ljungholm, I’ve changed it to Kathie and Sven.
Diary
of trip to Omsk, Siberia 9 - l5 1992
Omsk
is a city whose prime industry is the large military complex. And the city was
completely closed to foreigners until just a year ago and we are among the
first ‘westerners’ allowed in.
Sven
had been in regular contact with the Omsk city administration. The ongoing
concern is humanitarian aid to its citizens and an educational program to
assist in the hundred thousand military personnel who will be discharged honorably but without any military or Russian state support. They will re-enter
the general population over the next 48 months with little non-military
education and no guaranteed employment. Sven had already introduced a program
at the Moscow Military Academy and that was being copied and instituted elsewhere.
The government feared for the union’s future were there to be a million or
more unemployed soldiers roaming the streets without hope.
The terminal building is packed with people waiting for arriving passengers in one area and another specified: SECURED AREA Military Operations
The
terminal building is worn and in a state of dilapidation like so many other
buildings in Russia. In the combined arrival and departure hall there are many
small private vendors selling food and drink; juices of all kinds to
beers, wines, cognacs and champagne, the four Russian staples. All the
necessary ingredients, fruit and hops, are locally grown and produced keeping
the prices well below $1.00 per bottle even for the ‘finest’ wine. There are no
‘western’ drinks available for purchase this far from the European border. In
one corner smoke rises as shashlik skewers, a pork kebab concoction, are added
to the grill’s flimsy mesh inches above the glowing embers. We now realize that
the kebab aroma is what’s permeated the entire terminal. And we’re reminded
that we’ve traveled far since our last bite in the Moscow airport’s cafeteria!
But before we have even a second to contemplate a piece of tasty pork a Lieutenant Colonel wearing his great coat and military hat with the Interior Defense Troop’s insignia confronts us and in a broken English issues a command: You will follow me this way pleeze!
But before we have even a second to contemplate a piece of tasty pork a Lieutenant Colonel wearing his great coat and military hat with the Interior Defense Troop’s insignia confronts us and in a broken English issues a command: You will follow me this way pleeze!
We
walk briskly through the terminal to the military exit where he (and we?) are
saluted as we’re escorted to a mini-bus with military markings. Our bags are
carried for us and delivered to the bus. Of course the trunk of the bus is so
badly crushed in that we have to load in all the bags and our team of seven us through
the only side door that's functioning.
We get everything in and are more than a little surprised we made it and can still, with minimum effort, breathe.
We get everything in and are more than a little surprised we made it and can still, with minimum effort, breathe.
We
cross the river on the snow covered Leningrad bridge observing two frozen
corpses not far from each other at the side of the road, watched over by the
GAI (security forces) waiting for the bodies to be collected for transport to
the morgue.
Sven
explains that “it’s not unusual that persons who’ve consumed too much alcohol
will sometimes stumble and fall. And, unable to return to their feet it’s only a
matter of minutes before nature claims yet another frozen victim. Excessive drinking
was a factor in most of the almost 200 freezing deaths in Moscow alone last
year.”
We
go directly to the hotel named appropriately "Tourist", which is located at a small
stretch of frozen beach on a broad part of the river. There is a large sign
advertising riverboat passenger tours, and Natasha, our translator explains the
river is a key mode of transportation to and from Omsk. We observe scores of
docks, moorings and dry docks with boats secured for the winter months.
We
pile into the small hotel reception area and are informed (warned) that this is a
typical Russian hotel. There are small paintings over the reception desk: wine
bottles, schashlik, soup and vegetable images. We all seek out a door with the
sign STOLOVAYA –CAFÉ’ as Sven Ljungholm speaks with the receptionist and who in
turn calls the hotel manager – it appears no one who has made any reservations
for us?! This despite the fact 'Ljungholm’s secretary had called ahead to double
check the reservation', according to Natasha.
The
hotel manager appears from a side door, a woman, and takes Sven, Natasha, and
Schurink aside and explains that she is ashamed that we are to stay at her
hotel. “You really ought to stay in the international hotel located just
nearby.” I hear Sven Ljungholm say, “Njet, we must stay here. We are the
Russian Salvation Army and we want no special attention!?”
"I
immediately cried out, I am not a Russian!" But nobody takes notice of me
or the groans of the others. We must therefore stay at the hotel and we get the
keys. I understood well Sven’s point - cross cultural understanding, when Rome…
And there was also the savings- Sven explained later that, “As a Russian
entourage we pay Russian Ruble prices, not the western European prices – a 10
fold difference.” He reminded us of the Pizza Hut pricing structure, policy and
separate door entry enforcement guards!













